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Nightime Madness 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,373
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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The corner var on P2 that causes bad enough rope d...

Description 

You can climb four pitches, or one. You can TR Vanishing Point, and a couple others from the top of the 1st pitch.

P1. Climb a nice crack that wanders left to a belay.

P2. Climb up a chimney with hidden holds.

P3 & 4. Continue to the top, and walk off.

For a few more details, from boulderkeith:

P1: Climb solid jams through the steep bottom moves. At the sloping ledge halfway up the pitch either traverse left ~8' for a wider 5.7 crack with lots of face holds or head straight up for 5.8 hands. Both are recommended. If you choose the left crack, protect high in the crack with a long sling for your second and belay to the right at the base of the P2 crack.

P2: Climb up the wide crack (it isn't really a chimney) using face footholds. Without the face holds, this pitch would be tough. Near the top, you'll see a fixed steel cable belay. While you can use this belay (check condition!), it may limit your choices for P3.

P3: There are three ways that I know to do this pitch. First, climb the left flaring offwidth above the steel cable anchor. I believe this variation is 5.8. It looks like Hubbel calls this the Pillar Variation at 5.8+. Second, you can foot traverse from the left to the right at the steel cable. I believe this is how Hubbel draws the route. Third, you can climb the right crack in which case belaying from below the right crack is safer for you and your second.

The right side is 5.8 IMO beginning with some wide crack and face holds and moving into good jams. Eventually you'll move left slightly to a finger crack and then back right to the base of P4 chimney. Be sure to protect at the top of the cracks before traversing to protect your second.

P4: This chimney has plentiful face holds. If you are leading, you'll have to choose: out on the face holds = very little pro (significant R/X factor) but more pleasant climbing or thrutch into the back of the crack for some vertical whale moves (which I enjoyed). In the back of the crack, you can sling a chockstone and there is also a #4 Camalot placement. A #5/#6 Camalot might allow you to avoid the deep tunneling. In either case, either get back out on the face holds or thrutch/heel toe your way up to the top where you can go over the boulder or tunnel under. Belay at the top of a small low angle slab.

Protection 

Rack up to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Nightime Madness Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
This is how we did the route. Felt very stiff, to be conservative I'd say 8+ all around.
BETA PHOTO: This is how we did the route. Felt very stiff, to ...
Start of the climb.
Start of the climb.
Dave working the crux of Nighttime Madness.
Dave working the crux of Nighttime Madness.
Kimberly on Nighttime Madness.
Kimberly on Nighttime Madness.
Top 2 pitches. Multiple options leaving the steel cable belay, as mentioned in the route description.
BETA PHOTO: Top 2 pitches. Multiple options leaving the steel ...

Comments on Nightime Madness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Dakins
Mar 29, 2002

DO the the 5.8 variation. It is only 5.8 for a short section and has good pro. The rest of the route is pretty good. Midway up the second pitch I went left and did a 8+ variation that I thought was hard. The last pitch is confusing from the topo. We did a deep chimney finish that seemed harder as you go up (pro disappears for a while) - could be I was tired. I think the chimney we finished in is the last pitch of old tom. maybe not?
By Dan Battin
Nov 18, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Take your beginner friends to introduce them to multi pitch. If anyone has recomindations as to how to reduce rope drag at the third pitch at the entrance into the chimney let me know. the only thing I can think of is not placing in the thin crack just before and to the left of the chimney.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with Doug - the chimney pitch was a tad spooky for 5.6, as perscribed by Hubbel. I got a couple pieces in towards the bottom and a #2 stopper a little more than midway though, but then didn't get anything until slinging the boulder at the top (maybe 15' above the #2). I went right side in - anyone ever try left in?

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Went and did this one again... On the 2nd pitch, after the initial 25' foot crack, moving right up the face and into the LF corner and then back to the left nearly dooms your chances at making it to the belay ledge. The rope drag was bad enough that I had to belay at the cable below the squeeze/OW/hands section. Also, on the chimney pitch I got a couple equalized micros and a rp to protect the moves at the top of the chimney. Excellent route (especially w/ the LF corner var. on P2) with a little taste of everything you'll find at Turkey Rocks.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 9, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The upper chimney has a crack to the right on the lower half, taking small cams under 1/2 inch. If you bring a #6 Camelot, it wont protect the top part until the very end. This was easiest to climb facing to the left and using the face holds on that side of the chimney.

The white sling around the chockstone in the last chimney was still there as of 4-7-09.
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I faced to the right in the chimney.. darn. It provided for solid climbing but definitely became runout. Someone left a sling on a chockstone way deep in there and I used it for peace of mind, but it was still about fifteen feet until I got an O.K. #5 in at the top.
By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I thought the chimney to the top was harder than 5.7. Maybe it was all the gear or something else but it felt solid 5.8. There was a slung block in the middle where it really pinched down.
By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

When is mountainproject going to become more wikiable? I could write a better description of P3 and P4 in a few minutes than what is above.

P1: Climb solid jams through the steep bottom moves. At the sloping ledge halfway up the pitch either traverse left ~8' for a wider 5.7 crack with lots of face holds or head straight up for 5.8 hands. Both are recommended. If you choose the left crack, protect high in the crack with a long sling for your second and belay to the right at the base of the P2 crack.

P2: Climb up the wide crack (it isn't really a chimney) using face footholds. Without the face holds, this pitch would be tough. Near the top, you'll see a fixed steel cable belay. While you can use this belay (check condition!), it may limit your choices for P3.

P3: There are three ways that I know to do this pitch. First, climb the left flaring offwidth above the steel cable anchor. I believe this variation is 5.8. It looks like Hubbel calls this the Pillar Variation at 5.8+. Second, you can foot traverse from the left to the right at the steel cable. I believe this is how Hubbel draws the route. Third, you can climb the right crack in which case belaying from below the right crack is safer for you and your second.

The right side is 5.8 IMO beginning with some wide crack and face holds and moving into good jams. Eventually you'll move left slightly to a finger crack and then back right to the base of P4 chimney. Be sure to protect at the top of the cracks before traversing to protect your second.

P4: This chimney has plentiful face holds. If you are leading, you'll have to choose: out on the face holds = very little pro (significant R/X factor) but more pleasant climbing or thrutch into the back of the crack for some vertical whale moves (which I enjoyed). In the back of the crack, you can sling a chockstone and there is also a #4 Camalot placement. A #5/#6 Camalot might allow you to avoid the deep tunneling. In either case, either get back out on the face holds or thrutch/heel toe your way up to the top where you can go over the boulder or tunnel under. Belay at the top of a small low angle slab.