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Night Vision 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: Wolfgang Braun on Nov 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Night Vision

Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin just left of the Sanity Assassin Off width. Climb a easy dihedral to a big flake. Jam Or Layback the flake until you get under the bulge. Clip a bolt then make some powerful moves on good holds over the bulge. Some laid down climbing leads to a moderate rest. Next is the crux, either go straight up on small holds, or reach out left to the sloping arete until you reach a jug. Clip a piton, then make some balancy Tip jams that lead to a small ledge below the anchor.

The second pitch is 5.9 trad that leads to the top of the cliff, but it is likely that no one has done it in a long time, meaning it would be really dirty.

Location 

Just left of the Sanity Assassin block, right of the sign in a small corner.

Protection 

P1: 3 Bolts, 1 Piton, Gear to 2 inches, 3 bolt anchor with yellow webbing.

P2: Gear


Photos of Night Vision Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Between cruxes on Night Vision
Between cruxes on Night Vision

Comments on Night Vision Add Comment
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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Piton looks suspect. You can place a "good enough" yellow TCU right by it though if you want to back it up.
By dmPete
Jul 31, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Piton still looks suspect. My climbing partner and I each took modest whips on it, though, and it held...for what that's worth. In hindsight, maybe not the brightest idea to use it, and would have been happier backing it up with a small cam.

A bright, shiny bolt right there instead would definitely improve the experience.
By another Chad
Jul 31, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Pete, so the pin is holding falls and presumably kept you from taking a plunge and you advocate not using it?

If I remember correctly, nobody is going to take more than a mini-fall on that anyway as the climbing is over when the pin is at you waist. Right?

Chad
By dmPete
Aug 13, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Chad, I definitely see your points...the piton will probably continue to hold for some time still, and the risk of it being strained by a larger fall isn't huge.

This probably just boils down to the two of us having different risk tolerances, which is totally ok by me.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 9, 2016

I'm personally of the opinion that pins are outdated. Pins are designed to pulled, and designed to set with a hammer. Without carrying a hammer, you can't check to see if it's properly seated. There is no reason that a fixed pin shouldn't be pulled and replaced with a bolt now. I've also pulled several pins that were much newer, and they were halfway rusted through on the blade under the rock.
By another Chad
Apr 10, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

update: Three years ago I tried to funk out the pin in question. Today I tried again. Either my cable was going to snap or the piton eye was was going to tear before I could get the pin to budge. Agreed, pins are not an ideal solution, especially given our climate, but this one seems to be extremely solid right now and it happens to be in a great spot for the leader.

Chad

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