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Night Vision starts just left of Huston Crack, by a tree next to the rock, just left of the arete.
P1: Make balancy moves up to the first bolt (unprotected, or desperate #2 stopper/small RP about 8' up) and then continue on to clipping 2nd over the slabby bulge. Continue on easy ground to the top of a large block (watch rope drag) at the base of a headwall with 2 bolts and 2 fixed pins. Belay here.
P2: Go straight up the headwall, through a nice undercling (optional #3 Camalot) and clip one of the fixed pins (or both). Once here, move out onto the face/arete passing 2 bolts to an alcove at the top of the arete.
P3: Continue up and right via a crack to the summit (5.7).
A great route, with crux(es) protected by bolts. Note: You can also rap off at the end of the second pitch; there are many slings with rap rings (backing these up is suggested).
Stoppers, Cams (optional #3 Camalot), a few QDs for a couple bolts. All natural anchors, medium cams.
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Night Vision. The crux face i...
Bruce Hildenbrand drilling out an old 1/4" bolt ho...
Bruce Hildenbrand installing a new bolt. Note the...
A new 3/8" x 2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bo...
One of the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts that Bru...
BETA PHOTO: Crux face on the second pitch of Night Vision. Tw...
Tony Bubb leads up Night Vision to East Crack. Pho...
BETA PHOTO: Shane Zentner on Night Vision. The route pulls the...
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 7, 2002
Don't fall before the 1st bolt. It hurts.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
Don't fall after the bolt either. The two bolts on the second pitch are rusty 1/4" buttons that will as likely as not pop on a big fall. The first bolt can be backed up about 4 feet to the right by small brass nuts. The second bolt can not.
Beware: the leader on this pitch should be a solid 5.10 climber, as there is plenty of opportunity for injury in a fall.
|By Karl Nichols|
Jul 15, 2002
The second bolt on P1 is poorly placed...if you fall before clipping it, there's a good chance you'll slam into the tree right behind you.
The bolts on P2 are old, will probably not hold a fall, and can not really be backed up with pro. I ended up leaving the route and doing the crack which was at least something that can be protected. I agree with the comment above...unless your confident in your 5.10 abilities for the day, don't try leading this.
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I've always enjoyed this route. On pitch 1, before the first bolt, don't know about a #2 RP, but there is a shallow slot that takes a sideways #5 RP, the largest one they make, real well.
On pitch two the old (and very rusty) buttonheads are still there, as of August 2004. Used to be that this fine arete pitch seemed real safe compared to the funky crack/seam just right, but not anymore.
Note to self: Take a prybar and new bolts and drill next time.....
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
Sep 13, 2005
On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support.
ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without either a hanger or a nut and were very poorly drilled. Because of their location next to an easily protectable crack, the fact that they were very poorly drilled (sticking half out) and they did not have a hanger or nut attached to the studs, I removed them.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2007
Love this climb. 1 pitch (60m) to top. Rack used on 6/2/07 in order:
clip the two bolts up to #3 (BD) cam @ overhang, #00 (WC) cam, to piton, clipped the two shiny bolts, then a #1 (WC) cam, and some pieces for the belay. 60m rope won't reach all the way to the belay tree on summit if done in single pitch.
|By Shane Zentner|
Jul 21, 2008
The slot that Crusher mentions takes a #3 BD stopper placed broadside out. The placement is solid and secure and provides protection while getting to the first bolt (this works because I fell and it held).
Going for the second bolt is another ball of wax. As mentioned in the above post-do not fall as one would hit the tree and possibly the ground. There are several ways of getting to the second bolt, both of which are 5.10 moves. Stated simply: The crux of the first pitch is well above the first bolt but not quite at the second. The remaining pitches are fun.
From: Steamboat Springs
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
P2 is great. The gear is all there, and additionally there are some new shiny bolts to protect the slab moves. Fun route.