2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Night Vision starts just left of Huston Crack, by a tree next to the rock, just left of the arete.
P1: Make balancy moves up to the first bolt (unprotected, or desperate #2 stopper/small RP about 8' up) and then continue on to clipping 2nd over the slabby bulge. Continue on easy ground to the top of a large block (watch rope drag) at the base of a headwall with 2 bolts and 2 fixed pins. Belay here.
P2: Go straight up the headwall, through a nice undercling (optional #3 Camalot) and clip one of the fixed pins (or both). Once here, move out onto the face/arete passing 2 bolts to an alcove at the top of the arete.
P3: Continue up and right via a crack to the summit (5.7).
A great route, with crux(es) protected by bolts. Note: You can also rap off at the end of the second pitch; there are many slings with rap rings (backing these up is suggested).
Stoppers, Cams (optional #3 Camalot), a few QDs for a couple bolts. All natural anchors, medium cams.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 7, 2002
Don't fall before the 1st bolt. It hurts.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 13, 2002 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b PG13
Don't fall after the bolt either. The two bolts on the second pitch are rusty 1/4" buttons that will as likely as not pop on a big fall. The first bolt can be backed up about 4 feet to the right by small brass nuts. The second bolt can not.
Beware: the leader on this pitch should be a solid 5.10 climber, as there is plenty of opportunity for injury in a fall.
The second bolt on P1 is poorly placed...if you fall before clipping it, there's a good chance you'll slam into the tree right behind you.
The bolts on P2 are old, will probably not hold a fall, and can not really be backed up with pro. I ended up leaving the route and doing the crack which was at least something that can be protected. I agree with the comment above...unless your confident in your 5.10 abilities for the day, don't try leading this.
I've always enjoyed this route. On pitch 1, before the first bolt, don't know about a #2 RP, but there is a shallow slot that takes a sideways #5 RP, the largest one they make, real well.
On pitch two the old (and very rusty) buttonheads are still there, as of August 2004. Used to be that this fine arete pitch seemed real safe compared to the funky crack/seam just right, but not anymore.
Note to self: Take a prybar and new bolts and drill next time.....
On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support.
ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without either a hanger or a nut and were very poorly drilled. Because of their location next to an easily protectable crack, the fact that they were very poorly drilled (sticking half out) and they did not have a hanger or nut attached to the studs, I removed them.
Love this climb. 1 pitch (60m) to top. Rack used on 6/2/07 in order: clip the two bolts up to #3 (BD) cam @ overhang, #00 (WC) cam, to piton, clipped the two shiny bolts, then a #1 (WC) cam, and some pieces for the belay. 60m rope won't reach all the way to the belay tree on summit if done in single pitch.
The slot that Crusher mentions takes a #3 BD stopper placed broadside out. The placement is solid and secure and provides protection while getting to the first bolt (this works because I fell and it held).
Going for the second bolt is another ball of wax. As mentioned in the above post-do not fall as one would hit the tree and possibly the ground. There are several ways of getting to the second bolt, both of which are 5.10 moves. Stated simply: The crux of the first pitch is well above the first bolt but not quite at the second. The remaining pitches are fun.
By SeanKuus From: Steamboat Springs Aug 28, 2010 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
P2 is great. The gear is all there, and additionally there are some new shiny bolts to protect the slab moves. Fun route.