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West Buttress aka Comedy Wall
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Night Stalker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Norden, Bruce Adams, 1974
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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You can face left and chimney or face right using ...

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Description 

I thought this was a challenging and interesting climb, but, if you don't messing with wide cracks, you may disagree. It's just a bit dirty at the start. Then stemming and some strangeness leads to what was for me a mysterious crux near the top.

Rossiter and Rolofson call this 5.8, but it seemed pretty hard compared to some of the 9s at Blob, so I'll give it a 9.

The two-bolt anchor, though convenient, is recent and unnecessary, since you can easily scramble down and left from the anchor to the ground.

Start: From where the trail hits the base of Blob, hike left and up. Scramble up a slab. There is a large, right-facing corner (Divine Wind). Left of that is a roof with a couple of very hard, bolted lines. Left of that is the large left facing corner of Night Stalker.

A few stemming moves get your hands to a ledge. You can place a green Alien from the ground to keep you upright, should you fall here. With your hands on the ledge, you can place a hand-sized (or two) at the base of the corner. Once you're standing on the ledge the climbing up the corner is straightforward until you get to a wide section with some strangeness. Easy climbing leads to steeper rock and the crux. Save at least a #4 Friend for the crux.

Protection 

Double cams from green Alien to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot may be too small). A #4 Camalot will make it a bit more secure. Single set of nuts. Rap from a 2-bolt anchor with one rope.


Photos of Night Stalker Slideshow Add Photo
Night Stalker is the large shadowed left facing corner. It's 5.8 or so stemming a short right facing corner to get to the base of the main corner. <br /> <br />The Radlands slab can be seen on the right of the photo.
Night Stalker is the large shadowed left facing co...
The crux is where the left wall bulges out to almost meet the right arete. The 2-bolt anchor is in the shadowed area at the top left of the photo.
The crux is where the left wall bulges out to almo...
Looking down from the top.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top.
Night Stalker.  Climb the left-facing corner with a wide crack.
BETA PHOTO: Night Stalker. Climb the left-facing corner with ...
Peering up into the second wide part. It's pretty hard getting stood up onto the flake above Chuck's head, and then the difficulties continue for another body length.
Peering up into the second wide part. It's pretty ...
Stem the right facing corner off the ground until above the overhang, then more stemming, etc. gets you to the ledge above Chuck where it eases off afor a while.
Stem the right facing corner off the ground until ...
The upper crux area.
BETA PHOTO: The upper crux area.
Entering the first wide part. It's not unpleasant, but you may find yourself having to turn around once you've squeezed in.
Entering the first wide part. It's not unpleasant,...
Looking down the "walkoff" descent.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the "walkoff" descent.

Comments on Night Stalker Add Comment
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By S. Kimball
Nov 24, 2005

Quite good and surprisingly sustained, rate it 5.9. The subsidiary flake at the crux is questionable for protection, take Ivan's advice and carry several # 4's.
By Dougald MacDonald
Jan 30, 2011

Definitely a worthwhile stop on the Obscure Tour, and a good warm-up for the harder trad climbs in this neighborhood.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun route. I agree that it has a few 5.9 sections on it. I think the anchor is nice. You could walk off, but it is a little dangerous with steep, exposed, climbing near the bottom.