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Wow, this thing is hard. My big toes still hurt three days later and Iím not sure if I ever want to get back up there. The line is a little contrived but none the less itís still a good rock climb and youíll have a fun time trying to move off those dime edges.
For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.
You wonít get lost on this climb because itís heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but thereís enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.
Between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone.
12 Draws, 1/4 to 1 inch cams
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Jul 5, 2009
The guide book gives this route a 5.12 rating but if could be harder due to fragile edges (holds) breaking and crumbling. My partner and I broke a few.