2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Step up and clip a bolt on the left. Climb straight up a right-facing corner. A yellow Alien can be placed in an undercling between the second and third bolts. Mantel onto a big ledge on the left, and continue up the face to the anchor. A green Camalot can be placed to protect the final move to the anchor.
To get there from the main Bihedral area, traverse left on the narrow exposed ledge past Dan's Line and Group Therapy. Be very careful. Not a good approach for kids or pets. A safer approach can be made by coming up from the Left Side area, but this is a long way from the main Bihedral area.
An anchor has been installed on the right side of the shelf, so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the main Bihedral area instead of reversing the exposed traverse; see ??.
5 bolts plus a yellow Alien and green #0.75 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.
Honestly I'm not sure why this is listed as a mixed route. Placing gear here for any purpose other than practice seems a bit excessive. There is a bolt on top of the ledge halfway up that can be reached before pulling up on top of the ledge if you feel you need more protection. I carried gear up it and never felt it was necessary to place it.
You can clip a bolt right at the mantle move before you commit, so I don't think gear is necessary either.
By Hiro From: Boulder, CO Jan 19, 2013 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Led this today - I'm into protection and placing gear for practice, but I thought there were plenty of bolts. If I had stopped to place gear, I would just be wearing myself out. Climb smart and purposefully....