Night Moves  5.7

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 11/26/08 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Nov 27, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the base of the headwall above Tim.

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Description 

Night Moves is a short but fun mixed route that starts at the same place as Diamonds and Rust, on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality.

Step up and clip a bolt on the left. Climb straight up a right-facing corner. A yellow Alien can be placed in an undercling between the second and third bolts. Mantel onto a big ledge on the left, and continue up the face to the anchor. A green Camalot can be placed to protect the final move to the anchor.

Location 

The route starts on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality. This is the same start as for It's Time for Change and Diamonds and Rust.

To get there from the main Bihedral area, traverse left on the narrow exposed ledge past Dan's Line and Group Therapy. Be very careful. Not a good approach for kids or pets. A safer approach can be made by coming up from the Left Side area, but this is a long way from the main Bihedral area.

An anchor has been installed on the right side of the shelf, so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the main Bihedral area instead of reversing the exposed traverse; see ??.

Protection 

5 bolts plus a yellow Alien and green #0.75 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.