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Homestake Road Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 S,TR 
5.9 S 
Don't Drag the Dog S 
Dude I think I Lost My Wallet S 
Far Left 5.8 S 
Gomer Alert S 
Neon Noodle S 
Night and Day S,TR 
Psychic Bomber S 
Three's a Charm S 
Transmogrifier S 
Wolfman Shuffle S 

Night and Day 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Brianluce on Aug 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Central Homestake Crag.


This is a fun climb with 8 bolts.

It is the second climb from left of the 5.9, which is the obvious line that goes high into the broken rock/dihedral at the top of the middle of this cliff.

5.9ish terrain leads to the first bolt, then move up right on solid but intimidating holds. Carefully clip the second bolt (groundfall potential). Use some awesome sidepulls to a high jug on the 3rd bolt. Two moves between the 3rd and 4th bolts are quite hard on small finger sidepulls and make the crux of the route.

Then follow an easy series of huge, sharp sidepulls to the overhanging, broken finish. Monster jugs make this easier than it appears, but you better have some strong forearms for this one!


Second climb from left of the 5.9.

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By Brianluce
Aug 14, 2010

Yeah great climb, I call this climb Sidepull Sally. Good project.
By Roberto Morales
From: Eagle Vail, CO
Aug 31, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yeah, it was a good thing I figured out that middle section for you. Nice change over from left to right and then back to left in the crux about half way up.
By Dougald MacDonald
Jun 27, 2015

This route and Three's a Charm may be the same: There are only two 5.10s immediately left of the 5.9.

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