Nicotine  5.13a/b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.13a/b [details] FA:  Eric Zschiesche and Porter Jarrard Season:  Late Summer - Fall Submitted By:  Christopher Barlow on Nov 10, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

E.Z. on early attempt of recently equipped Nicotin...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Nicotine was Moore's first 5.13, a fact evidenced by the rusty bolts. While pretty stout for the 13a rating given by guidebooks (for me, it was as hard if not harder than Zeus), it is nevertheless a worthwhile endeavor with technical moves (including a devious throw), excellent rock, and a bit of spice that only a Moore's Wall sport climb can offer.

While Nicotine does have an independent finish, it may or may not have anchors. Feel free to venture up the lichen-covered rock to see if they exist. I opted to finish on Mighty Mouse's final crack and anchor.

Location 

Nicotine is located on the second main North End buttress, left of Vascular Disaster and just right of Mighty Mouse. It begins off the stacked boulders (the same start as Middle Road and Boogie) but steps just left and climbs clean, gray rock through two bulges. Above, it crosses a white face to a red band where can step left onto the Mighty Mouse finish.

Protection 

A Moore's Wall "sport climb": 5 bolts, a fixed pin (sticking way out from the rock but seems solid otherwise), and finger-hand size cams for the Mighty Mouse crack at the top. Mighty Mouse's anchor seems like the best way to descend.