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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991
Page Views: 1,677
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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The Nicorette Arete.


Nicorette is not your typical RRG 5.12, and perhaps for this reason its not nearly as popular as it used to be. With technical moves between thin pockets & minute feet, this route is a nice change of pace for those looking to test a different set of skills. The rock lacks the brilliant orange shades of other classics on the wall, but the rock is just as sweet.

Begin a bit right of the arete with juggy moves through a small overhanging. If you need it, there is a good rest here. Next is the technical crux, a vicious pull on a thin, rounded sidepull, to gain an excellent jug. After a brief shake, a series of thin, positive, sequential pockets leads up and left to the arete. Work your left hand up the unfortunately mossy & sometimes dirty arete, using intermittent pockets along the bolt line for the right. When the jug band up high is reached, traverse right easily to the anchor.


Nicorrette climbs the right side of the rounded Southeast arete where the approach trail initially meets the cliff.


~5 Bolts, 2BA

Photos of Nicorette Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view of Nocorette from the approach trail.
The view of Nocorette from the approach trail.

Comments on Nicorette Add Comment
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By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Oct 25, 2012

The large jug used to clip bolt 3 is currently home to something resembling a snake.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2012

Snake was not at home on my attempt

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