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Who Done It? 

Nicky's Crack 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 8/99
Page Views: 2,492
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Nicky's Crack heads straight up the middle of this...

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Description 

Don't be fooled by the name...it's not a crack climb. "Nikki's Crimps" might be more appropriate. A great technical climb which can stymie confident 5.12 climbers from time to time.

The route starts up more moderate moves in a corner gaining a good rest followed by stout face climbing following the thin cracks in the headwall. Very technical.


Location 

To the right of Jolt and Dolt there is a smooth face about 40 feet up, split by a few very thin cracks. Follow bolts below up a corner to the face.


Protection 

7 bolts to the same quick clips as Hinterland Highway (5.6).



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2013
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

although you can just top rope it (using the 5.6 next to it), I thought it was a nice 11 to lead if you are starting to get into leading 11's... especially since if you can't make it and your partner can't get up it either, you can always lead the 5.6 and get your gear etc. I agree that it is more small crimps and footwork than a crack.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 27, 2008

I think the name should be spelled Nicky's Crack, as in Nicky Dyal. I'm not absolutely sure, but I think she was the girl at the crag with her dad at the time of the FA. She made a bit of an impression on us all. We were having a conversation about elves and wood nymphs and along she came, looking exactly like one

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 28, 2008

It's been changed. Why were you talking about elves and stuff in the first place Mark?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 29, 2008

Lol, I think we were seeing them up there quite often, before the masses of people came and scared them off.

By burlap submariner
Feb 19, 2010

Thats wild Ive climb this a bunch of times and i didnt know it was named after nicky....she is rather elfkin like.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

It's funny what a year of experience can do for you; got on this today and it was super cruiser. :) Moves that were burly for me all went down with ease after using better technique. Crux of the climb is using the right holds in the sea of chalk and tick marks. Nice climb.

By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
May 17, 2010

super tricky. insain feet, reachy, awesome. I will be back to conqure it

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 17, 2010

I think this was my most painful bare foot ascent ever. Ouch! It was perversely fun though.

By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2012

I cannot imagine climbing this thing barefoot. I stood on some really small footholds to make some of the moves. No send today, quite a Beta intensive climb. Really quite good.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Nov 24, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

After sending giant man, feeling confident, this thing slapped me down. Not your typical rumney thugging, hecka fun!

By S. Neoh
Nov 24, 2013

Unless you are perverted like Mark, bring your most techie shoes and best footwork for this one. They will come in handy for the 1 or 2 moves that make the grade.