Nickels and Dimes
|5,464 page views|
Ben Mottinger works around the crux of this short ...
This route follows the far right bolt line on High Wire, where the trail meets up with the rock. The route travels right underneath a large triangular right-facing block/flake. The anchors end up about 5' to the right of the anchors for People's Choice. See R. Wright's comments under People's Choice for more.
Addendum: you can continue up and right of People's Choice's second pitch for another moderate pitch (?5.5) on gear.
Per Bill Olszewski: the thin flake under the main system flexes.
7 bolts? to a 2 bolt anchor.
Erik Marr climbing Nickles and Dimes (photo from t...
Minda working through the upper part of the crux. ...
Caitlin workin' the crack.
Approaching the big flake.
Ross Downer working the flake system on Nickles an...
Having fun while rappelling.
|Comments on Nickels and Dimes
|By Derek Lawrence|
Jan 1, 2001
Although a bit contrived - avoiding the flake offers a great sequence of edges to the anchors - probably 10a, lots of fun!
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 3, 2001
This was the first route my wife and I hopped on out of the truck on our last Colorado trip. We figured it was a 5.7 or 5.8. I found the crux to be just before the huge flake just like the other route description. A nice route to hop on and warm up on.
|By Chris Carr|
Feb 24, 2002
We accidentally did this route instead of the first pitch of "People's Choice" and found it to be a wonderful face climb or a warm up for harder stuff. I do this route every trip to the High Wire and each time I try to do it differently, and I've found that, while it makes the route easier, the flake offers a number of quite fun variations to the climb overall.
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 21, 2002
I found this climb (not using the flake) to be more enjoyable, more sustained, and more thoughtful than the first pitch of People's Choice. I thought the first pitch of People's Choice had one or two challenging moves just before the slab flattened out, while Nickles and Dimes had a longer crux sequence.
|By Ryan Henry|
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 8, 2006
Just led this one today, and it was great. I agree with the 5.9 if you use the flake, otherwise the face was around 10b or c. It also works great for top-roping and practicing technical slab moves, (very balancy through the middle section). It is harder than it looks, so don't take it as a joke.
|By Jonathan Reeves|
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 16, 2009
One of my favorite climbs if you don't use the flake. I would say the slabby moves to the vertical crack at the ledge would make it 5.10c. I would say it is a bit harder than People's Choice if you don't use the flake and a solid 5.8 with the flake.
|By Greg Woodward|
Oct 5, 2010
Did this climb today after hopping on People's Choice. I found the crux to be just after the 3rd or 4th bolt before get to the big flake on the right side. Before getting to the flake, the face flattens out offering a good lower left foot and higher notch for your right. Pretty slabby, this must be 5.10ish, because it felt comparable to the 1st pitch slab on PC. After the slab, it's very straightforward 5.8/5.9.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 12, 2011
Led the first pitch only. Feels 5.8 using the flake system. Be aware that the thin flake under the main system flexes - I would recommend avoiding it. Staying on the bolt line and skipping the entire flake system yields a nice crimpy variation that feels about .10b.