Nick of Time 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Kamps and Richard Goldstone, August 7, 1968. |
| Season: | spring summer fall |
| Submitted By: | CURT LOVE on May 9, 2007 |
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The stunning Nick of Time
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Description This is one of the best .10 crack climbs around. It has all sizes, starts off big and goes to fist, hand, and eventually bitchin finger locks.
Super Route
Location If you have ever climbed Classic Crack and looked across at Outer Outlet you have most likely seen this beautiful crack. Approach is the same for Jugs.
Protection bear bones
two #4 camalots
two #3.5 camalots
two # 3 camalots
one #1,#2 camalots
set o nuts
A number 4.5 or five camalot would be nice for the bottom. You can sling a horn down low, and there is a fixed hex a little ways up. As always take a few more pieces if you dont care for sliding gear up a bit. Oh yeah no anchor up top but some nuts should do the job and the sit stance is fine for an old school body belay.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 24, 2008
| The first ascent was by Bob Kamps and Richard Goldstone, August 7, 1968. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008
| I found no anchors at the top. Does anyone know why there are none? |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 15, 2008
| That is a good question? I am pretty sure the first bolt I ever drilled was on top of Nick. It would have been a ways back from the edge as was the custom back then. Forgot a hammer and spent thirty minutes using a rock as a hammer to drill it. |
By Andy Busse
Administrator
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 7, 2008
| The hex is MIA. |
By Monica Jones
Sep 17, 2010
| Wild. Only had two #4's and a 4.5" cam for almost the entire route. At the very top I got some smaller pieces in. Walked pieces and downclimbed a couple times to retrieve big pieces to place higher. Really cool crack, such a beautiful splitter. Classic. |
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