Nice Surprises  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Alex Garhart on Sep 11, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route.

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Description 

Pitch 1: Make easy chimney moves off the ground and find a hidden #2 Camalot placement in the back of the chimney ~12 feet off the ground. Chimney and stem up into a large pod with a handcrack on the right side of a roof. Jam the roof and pull up to a nice flake on the left side of the chimney. Climb the hand/finger crack above to a large ledge and belay from gear (90 feet, 5.8).

Pitch 2: Choose your own adventure in twin cracks. The left crack is wide and a bit dirty, the right crack is fingers (recommended) with good stemming. Belay from boulders (40 feet, 5.9).

There is some crumbly rock on this route but the climbing is varied and fun at the grade.

Location 

Route is 50 feet right of Y-Crack on the west end of Mighty Mouse.

Protection 

Pitch 1: Doubles of BD # 0.75-2.0, stoppers.
Pitch 2: BD # 0.4, 0.5, 2 and 4. Walk off to the west.