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 ADVANCED
Providence
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Sea Friends S 
Both Get Hard On Top S 
Fist of Gold S 
Gold Nugget S 
Next Time, Send a Card S 
Nice Stems TR 
Prohibition T,S 
Providence Crack T 
Regurgitated Bird S 
Slimestone Cowboy S 
Unsorted Routes:

Nice Stems 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Dolph
Page Views: 380
Submitted By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

oute starts at the tip of the buttress about 50 feet to the right of Providence Crack. Climb the slab, spine to the right, then up to the giant wedge missing from the face. stem and finger crack then stick the hold on the left of the roof. swing out, partial mantel, backstep stem, work up to the top. crux moves at the top.

Location 

50 feet right of providence crack

Protection 

Top rope natural anchors, trees, with 30 foot webbing. CAUTION, first ledge and backstep stemming at the crux has loose rock.


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By Elijah Flenner
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route now has six bolts and a two bolt anchor.

The crux involves a hard to see hold at the very top. Careful getting to the last bolt, and I would advise not taking too many falls with the rope running on the edge of the roof.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jan 21, 2011

I bolted this route last summer and is now called Ancient Sea Friends, although after the fact it came to my attention that it was once climbed about a decade ago as a very ballsy gear climb by Ben Williams. No matter what you call it or how you climb it, this is a cool route in a cool area.
By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 3, 2011

1990's Trad line: Too Wiered For Words was a bold lead for sure. Listed in the 1998 climbing guide book as a TR, this route was not reccommended for future trad ascents because of the lack of protection. Feel free to give the route a try via pure trad style or try to head up the flake to the right then out right of the dihedral to the upper left-facing crack. Goodluck!

This gem, now a bolted sport line, was a trad line that surely needed the bolts. At the same time, the top of this route is no less dicy than Providence Crack's trad finish! Good job Kevin. I also like the new name. No one knew it as Nice Stems.
Sport, Providence Crack Area options
Sport, Providence Crack Area options