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This is a nice, technical 5.10a with a variety of styles and moves that will test your route and sequence finding abilities as well as your physical skills.
Belay from the eyebolt on the left side of the ledge or suffer the wrath of the cliff behind you.
The start can be done a few ways but basically do a few steep moves to establish your self on the steep slab and get your feet working. The climbing continues like this for a while till you approach the top and you get back in to some interesting, steeper moves to the chains. The last moves will test you, so don't count your proverbial chickens, so to speak.
The best warm up at the crag for sure.
Starts from the ledge that splits the left side of The Prudential. Walk left on the ledge to the end, and follow the bolt line above you up the steep slab, the route that traverses right from the ledge is Swedish Girls (5.10d).
9 bolts to quick clips.
Jul 27, 2009
A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top.
|By J. Albers|
Aug 12, 2010
I thought this was a great route. I do think the start is a bit height dependent though. If you can't reach the good rail above the first bolt from the starting holds, then this route gets quite a bit harder than 10- in a hurry. I climbed it with a woman who is sub 5'4" and the moves she was doing were not the 10- moves I had the luxury of doing. Either way, this is a super nice route.
|By S. Neoh|
Apr 28, 2013
I recommend stick clipping 1st and 2nd bolt. The start felt harder than the crux on Finland to me. It is probably .11a or harder for anyone 5'5" or shorter.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
May 12, 2013
Great route. I enjoyed the various sections. I agree that the start is a little trickier for shorties - I could grab what I wanted from the ground easily. The crack midway up was fun and the top out was really cool. I'm surprised this wasn't called Finland.