Nice Chutin' 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, May, 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mark Tarrant on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Description Presently the second bolted line found as you hike up The Chuting Gallery. Nice Chutin' climbs the vertical, black wall in the narrowest part of the gully, starting 10' right of a 3' deep, left-facing dihedral. Two interesting cruxes are encountered on the way to a rest at a small ledge with a little tree. Climb gently past the tree and deal with a tricky section (.10/+?) that should keep you guessing. (The cam is handy between bolts 1 and 2). 2.5 stars.
Location This is in The Chuting Gallery. It is the second bolted route coming up from the bottom.
Protection 8 bolts, 1.5" cam, 2-bolt anchor.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2011
| A little scaly between bolts 1 and 2, but I didn't think a cam was needed or would help much anyway. The route has lots of body tension and sidepulls and underclings. Do it fresh, not pumped, and it might seem easy at the grade. It might seem hard if fatigued, as many clips are off of underclings, sidepulls, and pinches. The clips will also be difficult if under 5'7" or so, my 5'4" female partner appreciated the pre-hung draws in preference to clipping from crux moves. |
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