Nice 5.9 Climb
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Climb up about 25 feet to a short right-facing, right-leaning corner capped by a roof. Go over the roof (crux) to a stance, then over two smaller and easier (about 5.8) roofs. Trend left to a large pine and belay.
Find the trail leading up to the base of the cliff that is just around the corner (right) from the Brat face: at the start of this trail is an obvious, low-angle chimney - Easy Keyhole
. The start of this route is about 45 feet or so past that, and ten feet right or so of the obvious, right-leaning layback crack of Nice 5.7 climb.
Standard 'Gunks rack.
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011
Found this to be a soft 9. Basically a one move wonder, rock over and then up a short face through some easy roof moves. This is well protected and makes a nice first "9" for someone breaking into the grade.
Mar 22, 2012
I agree that it's one strenuous (and a bit balancy?) memorable 9 move, though not necessarily representative of crux moves on lots of other 9s in the Gunks. There are also some mildly-entertaining easier moves leading up to it.