Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
* Ice and Mixed Climbing

Select Area...
Ace of Spades Crag 
Arethusa Falls 
Bear Mountain (near Newfound Lake) 
Cannon Ice Climbs 
Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs 
Champney Falls 
Dixville Notch 
Echo Crag Ice Climbs 
Flume, The 
Frankenstein Ice Climbs 
Garfield Crag 
Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)  
Holts Ledge 
Ice and Mixed Bouldering 
Kinsman Notch 
Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena (Slander Crag) 
Mahoosuc Notch 
Mount Moosilauke 
Mount Washington & Presidentials (Adams, Jeff. etc) 
Mt Major 
Mt. Avalon 
Mt. Huntington (Ice)  
Mt. Lafayette 
Mt. Lincoln 
Mt. Lowell 
Mt. Tom  
Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & 
Mt. Willard (Ice)  
Mt. Willey 
Newfound Lake 
Oliverian Notch 
Painted Walls Ice Climbs 
Pawtuckaway 
Polar Caves (CLOSED) 
Rainbow Slabs - Winter Ice 
Rumney Ice Climbs 
Sandwich Notch Ice 
Stonehouse Pond 
Tenny Mountain 
Texaco Amphitheater 
Trollville (Duckshead) 
West Rattlesnake Ice 
Wilderness Woods  
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Kingdom Trails: Darling Hill Loop
A nice introduction to the Kingdom Trails Darling Hill side in East Burke. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
White School
A nice, scenic trail following the Passumpsic River towards town. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
J-Bar
A fast, semi-technical downhill through the woods on Burke Mountain. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
Kingdom Trails: Mountainside Loop
A great loop on the mountainside of the Kingdom Trails with fantastic downhills and big climbing. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
Moose Alley
An awesome downhill that takes you from the mountain-side to the White School area of Kingdom Trails Near Lyndonville, Vermont
Tent Boulder Trail
Awesome trail features make a great woods ride. Near Pinkham Notch, New Hampshire
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

* Ice and Mixed Climbing Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.271, -71.3055 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 143,303
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mt. Washington (from the West)

Description 

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. Its easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.

Getting There 

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

274 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',123],['2 Stars',79],['1 Star',33],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in * Ice and Mixed Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for * Ice and Mixed Climbing:
Odell's Gully   WI2-3     Ice, Alpine, 600'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Pegasus Rock Finish   WI3 M3     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Dropline   WI5     Ice   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Gully 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Mt. Willard (Ice) : South Face - Lower
The Cleft   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Upper
Geographic Factor   WI5     Ice   Rumney Ice Climbs : Hinterlands
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Greens Chasm   WI3 M1-2     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 2500'   Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Shoestring Gully   WI2     Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches   Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Repentance   WI5 M4-5     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Remission NEI 5+   WI5+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Damnation Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 1000'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Lower
Black Dike   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Cannon Ice Climbs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in * Ice and Mixed Climbing

Featured Route For * Ice and Mixed Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: "Way in the Wilderness", March, 2005.

Way in the Wilderness WI5  NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Painted Walls Ice Climbs
Pitch 1: Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings). Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of * Ice and Mixed Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.
1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1982 North Conway Mt Rescue team on Mt Washington ...
1982 North Conway Mt Rescue team on Mt Washington ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up "Smear" .... March 6, 2016
Starting up "Smear" .... March 6, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney ice
Rumney ice
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...
Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...
Rock Climbing Photo: New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...
New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...

Comments on * Ice and Mixed Climbing Add Comment
Show which comments
By reddirt
Mar 19, 2008
NH is a state where people actually drive the speed limit (and rarely over).

They've got a lot of good ice, and even more a$$hole cops... so watch your speed.

"Live free or die" my a$$!
By James M Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 20, 2008
Also, "Live free or die, unless that involves drinking at a bar after midnight."

Funny how such an oppressive place can have such Libertarian motto...
By JohnnyG
Jan 9, 2012
What's up with all the hating on NH from the first two posters? This place is wicked awesome.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 9, 2012
I dunno- some pretty fine climbers have come outta here . You climb hard here and you'll be good anywhere.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 27, 2013
New Hampshire allows you to live free in as conservative a manner as you please.
By nick manning
From: superior,az
Jan 27, 2013
NH is rad, F the haters

RUMNEY
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 7, 2013
The chosen, Frozen
By Eli Buzzell
Feb 27, 2015
Sounds like everyone is just jealous of our motto, which is better than all others.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!