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Sigma Wall
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Nakoma (formerly The Niche) S 
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Nexus 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Season: anytime the bugs are low
Page Views: 2,440
Submitted By: Tyler on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Tyler enjoying another creative and playful rest o...

Description 

This route was finally bolted for sport in Sept 2011 (with permission from Mike Dahlberg).
HYPER CLASSIC.
Route immediately left of Sigma.
Stick clip first bolt or climb good holds to first.
Has a little bit of everything; liebacking, stemming, pinching, crimping, jamming, pocket-filling and a redpoint crux guarding the anchors. A very special line.
Hard to believe that two routes of this caliber exist right beside each other in Minnesota. Believe it.
This, along with all five routes in this area, were first climbed by Dahlberg circa 1988.
First Lead Ascent by Sean Ferrell.


Location 

Sigma wall on northern-most wall without any ledges.


Protection 

BOLTED. 8 bolts plus anchors.



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By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Sep 23, 2009

BEWARE: There are two hornets nest on the top of this. One right by the top anchors and one 2/3rds of the way to the top near a birch tree.

By Kahl
Jun 11, 2012

Found 2 hornets nests with angry ones on them last weekend. On my way down, it seemed some sticks "landed" on the nests and they broke off. Hopefully the route will stay clean now, super fun!!! Beyond my sending level tho thus far

By Kevin Scott
Sep 1, 2012

This route is bolted now, and the hornet's nests are gone. I wasn't able to climb it however my partner did. He was estimating low 5.13.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Nov 3, 2012

This route is a MN gem. It is absolutely fantastic.

By ferrells
Dec 1, 2012

I saw that I was mentioned, but not Tyler on this page, and felt I should say something. I didn't bolt this route, just got permission to try it from Tyler Hoffart, who put in the time, money, and care to equip it.
He did a fantastic job. He took a dusty top-rope, communicated respectfully with Mr. Dahlberg, and brought this thing to life. The hardware is bomber, and the bolts are well-placed.
I'd say it's now the best bolted route in Minnesota. And 2nd on my top ten best sport routes in the mid-west.

By Josh Cox
From: Andover, MN
Jun 19, 2013

@ferrells - I'll bite, what are your top ten sport routes in the Midwest?

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

first off, thanks for bolting this rig, tyler hoffart. you did a quality job. you used the best hardware, and the bolt placements are spot-on. well done.

nexus truly is a very fun, aesthetic line. there is only one way up, and that is rare for minnesota routes. nexus packs in a wide variety of movement: stemming, jamming, gastons, highsteps, lockoffs, and a sweet deadpoint. what's more, all cruxes are preceded by very good rests, one of which is a no hands.

that being said, there are downsides to the line. the flared corner climbing does not flow well, and it is preceded by the start, which is a dripping "hanging garden". the rock above the corner is crumbly. those holds are already breaking and crumbling. for these reasons, i think sigma -- not nexus -- remains the best line at sandstone.

as for the grade, i think 12d is more appropriate than 13a. the rests are too good. the individual moves no harder than v5. and, overall, the line feels just a couple notches harder than sigma, which would make nexus' grade near 12d.

i apologize if you think this comment runs long. i wanted to give a thorough explanation of my opinion, as i think this gives the line and the equipper the respect they deserve.

By ferrells
May 13, 2014

The pressure! Okay. For the sport areas I know around here, my 10 favorites

Dry Lightning (has to go at the top because I'm trying it now)
Whiskey A Go Go
Nexus
Tsunami
Sigma
Hurtful Pleasures
Mississippi Burning (avoiding the new giant ledge rest, sadly)/Blankman
Sudden Daydreams
Genesis Effect
Fox Confessor

Runners up:
Advanced Birding
Natural Selection/Surf Selection
Abel/Cain - but I haven't done them yet
Brown Reason to Live
Hawaiian Bill
Pork Tornado
Paradigm Shift
Midsummer Daydream
Man in the Black Pajamas
Jump to Something Good
That 5.10ish thing to the left of Whiskey
Insectiphobe - not so good, maybe, but pretty hard

Oh, and as far as the grade of Nexus, sure, anything is fine. We're all friends here.