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Nexus 
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Nexus 

5.13a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Season: anytime the bugs are low
Submitted By: Tyler on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This route was finally bolted for sport in Sept 2011 (with permission from Mike Dahlberg).
HYPER CLASSIC.
Route immediately left of Sigma.
Stick clip first bolt or climb good holds to first.
Has a little bit of everything; liebacking, stemming, pinching, crimping, jamming, pocket-filling and a redpoint crux guarding the anchors. A very special line.
Hard to believe that two routes of this caliber exist right beside each other in Minnesota. Believe it.
This, along with all five routes in this area, were first climbed by Dahlberg circa 1988.
First Lead Ascent by Sean Ferrell.


Location 

Sigma wall on northern-most wall without any ledges.


Protection 

BOLTED. 8 bolts plus anchors.



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By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Sep 23, 2009

BEWARE: There are two hornets nest on the top of this. One right by the top anchors and one 2/3rds of the way to the top near a birch tree.

By Kahl
Jun 11, 2012

Found 2 hornets nests with angry ones on them last weekend. On my way down, it seemed some sticks "landed" on the nests and they broke off. Hopefully the route will stay clean now, super fun!!! Beyond my sending level tho thus far

By Kevin Scott
Sep 1, 2012

This route is bolted now, and the hornet's nests are gone. I wasn't able to climb it however my partner did. He was estimating low 5.13.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Nov 3, 2012

This route is a MN gem. It is absolutely fantastic.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 1, 2012

I saw that I was mentioned, but not Tyler on this page, and felt I should say something. I didn't bolt this route, just got permission to try it from Tyler Hoffart, who put in the time, money, and care to equip it.
He did a fantastic job. He took a dusty top-rope, communicated respectfully with Mr. Dahlberg, and brought this thing to life. The hardware is bomber, and the bolts are well-placed.
I'd say it's now the best bolted route in Minnesota. And 2nd on my top ten best sport routes in the mid-west.