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Next 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 1972 Eric Beck
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: V.X. on Jun 29, 2012
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Description 

The first pitch of "Next" or "The Next Imagination" as it was originally called starts to the left of "Slipstream". It consists of low angle cracks/flakes and is tricky to protect. It then climbs into a gully and up a short 5.7 slot with a chockstone. Belay from gear 1"-2.5". The second pitch is amazing. Choose your grips carefully as you balance and crimp your way up a rounded buttress and then transition onto the broad slabby face to the left (10b). Very similar to Tuolumne style climbing and commitment level. 4 new-style bolts in 75 feet to chain anchors on the top of "No Stems" or 90 feet to the plush "Birdie" ledge. For the third pitch, go straight up the nice vertical splitter crack that hooks to the left at the top. Instead of following the crack left, clip the bolt above and balance your way right and up to chain anchors (10+). This crack is steep, clean, and features great climbing. If it were more accessible it would be one of the most popular 10+ routes on the summit.

To descend, rap the route.


Protection 

Draws, gear to 3.5".



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