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Next to Nothing 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, May 1998.
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: richard magill on May 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Just right of "Frothing Green" is "Next to Nothing".

A pumpy line with three distinct cruxes, each successively harder than the last. The first crux is 11d, the next 12a, and the last 12b. Involves intricate stemming and lunging and some significant power at the last crux to avoid the barn door effect.

There is a 2nd pitch.

Per Aeon Aki: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good.

Protection 

8 bolts.


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By Chris Archer
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

High in the grade for Boulder Canyon; difficult clip at crux.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

12b maybe, yes...But if this is 5.12b, how can Meteor Roadblock be 12a/b there is a relative mile of difficulty between them. I suggest that this route is the more honestly graded of the two.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Apr 9, 2009

The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch.
By Mark Rolofson
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I climbed this route many times since 1998. There are times when it hasn't seemed harder than 5.12b but this year it seems much harder to repeat than "Super Bon Bon" or "Shiny Dog". I beleive Chris Alber considered rating it .12c until Fred Knapp did it and called it .12b. I think I am inclined to call it 5.12b/c. It is very stout for .12b.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2013

Burly little crux section that I thought was quite hard for 12b. The holds are bad. I didn't realize that there was even a second pitch which I did all in one with a 60 meter rope. Although, pitch 2 is a pile of choss, especially the licheny dirty slab at the top that has a sketchy move getting to the anchors. Do the first pitch, and clip chains to the right once you reach the ledge....