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The North Forty
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Newton County Mentality 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on May 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Phil Watts above the crux on Newton County Metalit...

Description 

The crux of this climb is unmistakable, and very specialized. Campus the first few moves to a large jug, then high step, crimp, and stand up into a shallow dihedral. Follow good holds and much easier climbing to the arete and the top. The bottom moves are much harder than the rest of the route, and can be made easier by using cheater stones. This route will feel very different in difficulty to many different people.


Location 

On the far right hand side of the cliff. This route is on the right hand side of a bouldering cave, and starts with your hands above the cave. Look for a shallow dihedral above some very chalked holds.


Protection 

Six bolts and a two bolt anchor.



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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
Sep 12, 2010

Diverse movements make this route fun. Look for the ticked rail at the bottom of the dihedral.

By jeremy ward
From: las vegas, nevada
Jan 18, 2011

Ok route - the bottom is much easier if you are taller/have a large ape index. After the opening moves/getting established on the wall the difficulty eases tremendously.

By AstroDood
From: his mind
Feb 19, 2014

"backwoods campusN' 'n stuff like that"
"a truly terrific 5.6 corner preceded by an inbred overhangin' 5.11 thingy-ma-jig"
-D. Richardson

By Sergeant Dick Richardson
From: his mind
Mar 13, 2014

-that AstroDood seemz legitimately amazing
-i'd rather eff my sister again before climbin' that effer again