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News Wall

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News Wall 


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Location: 30.5077, -98.8198 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,574
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 20, 2006
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Description 

News Wall is located on the right side of the Backside of the Main Dome. Using the Echo Canyon trail, it's the first of the four Backside walls that you'll encounter. News Wall is also the smallest of the four with most of the routes under half a rope length. All but two of the climbs require gear, and most have anchors at the top. "Sweat" is one of the best climbs at the grade (5.7) in the park.


Getting There 

News Wall is the shortest walk of any of the Backside walls. Follow the Echo Canyon trail through the Main Dome - Little Dome saddle, down the draw, and through the boulders at the bottom. There is a well used hiking trail that leads out from the boulders, loops to the right (northeast), and continues around the entire dome. Follow the trail to the blue climbers trail and turn right. The trail will deposit you under “Sweat.” There are two climbs immediately right of “Sweat,” while the remaining routes are to the left. There is a climbers trail that runs along the base of the wall and can be used to access the other walls along the Backside.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for News Wall:
Walter Funkite   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 45'   
Sweat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pro Sweat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Mercy Street   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in News Wall

Featured Route For News Wall
Orlando Teran in the thick of it

Sweat 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : News Wall
Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain li...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on News Wall Add Comment
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By Superclimber
Jan 21, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off of Proc Wall (located left of News Wall) with a single 60 Meter rope.

There are many places in the park where you can NOT rap or lower with a 60 Meter rope. In some places not even a 70 Meter rope will make it. Do not assume you can rap or lower off of anything safely even with a 70.

You can not rappel or lower off of Proc Wall, Ripple, Boston, Kraken, or Devil's slide (Mark of the Beast & Harder Than it Looks) with a 60. If you are climbing in any of these areas you must walk off, take two ropes, or find the rap bolts in the alcove above News Wall. A 60 Meter rope will make it from the designated News Wall rappel anchors.

The News Wall anchors are intended as a designated rap station for the Backside. They do not protect any specific climb, nor are they intended for you to hang a rope on and spend the day occupying. These anchors are there specifically as a descent route for parties climbing the Backside.

There are no sport clips anywhere in the park. Basic anchor building skills are pretty much required to climb at Enchanted Rock.