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Newlin Creek

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Parking Lot Rock 

Newlin Creek 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: John Sherman on Jun 20, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Classic boulders also abound at Newlin Creek.

Description 

Newlin Creek is in the Wet Mountains south of Canon City. There are over a dozen granite/gneiss buttresses in the canyon of which less than half have routes on them to my knowledge. Two or three years ago I saw no evidence of climbing in the canyon. I did a couple easy trad lines then and some bouldering. The canyon seemed to have immense potential for trad lines due to the abundant crack systems. About a year ago, John Gill told me he saw some bolts in the canyon. I went back in June 2003 and saw many bolted lines on the buttresses lower in the canyon. Most of the bolt lines closely follow moderate-looking crack systems. A few harder-looking cracks have been bolted and a few moderate to harder faces, too.

About a mile up the Forest Service trail is an unbolted buttress I call The Big House. (After crossing the wooden foot bridge 1/2 mile up the trail, proceed over 4 creek crossings, 3 of the main creek and one of a tributary coming in from the south. 100 feet past the 4th crossing on the North side of Newlin Creek is The Big House.) There are two obvious crack lines on this wall. On 6/11/03 Hank Jones and myself climbed the steeper left-hand crack (Conviction, 5.12). We both led it that day completely on clean gear, each placing the gear free on the lead. To reach the top of the buttress is ~120 feet, but the business is the sinker fingerlocks and beefy hand jams of the first 60 feet up to the obvious roof. This section is wicked strenuous, overhanging 20 feet, but on superbly solid rock with good pro if you can hang in long enough to place it. I don't hesitate to say this is one of the finest trad lines of its grade along the Front Range. I've reported it here in the hopes it will remain unbolted so that others can enjoy the challenge as we did.

- John Sherman


Getting There 

From Florence, CO drive south on CO State Hwy 67. After passing the Federal Penitentiary on the left, continue two miles then turn right on FS RD 15 (a sign says Newlin Creek Trailhead). Drive west up FS RD 15 6.5 miles to the parking at the trailhead.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Newlin Creek

Parallel Parking 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CO : The Wet Mountains : ... : Parking Lot Rock
On the far left of the crag, past the big clean slab, is an arÍte. This climb takes the arÍte. Nice line. Mostly good juggy rock, but a tad licheny. Some cool moves.P1. Start in the base of the big right-facing book on the left of the slab. Head up to a shallow alcove, then up and left to the arÍte. Continue up the arete, mostly just right of the arÍte itself, to a large ledge with a tree. Belay (5.9, 70').P2. Up the short corner behind the tree to the top (5.7, 20').Descend to the west (left)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Newlin Creek Slideshow Add Photo
Can you say "Verve Redoux?"
BETA PHOTO: Can you say "Verve Redoux?"
Another Newlin Creek Rock with several new routes.
BETA PHOTO: Another Newlin Creek Rock with several new routes.
One of many multi-pitch classic towers at Newlin Creek.
BETA PHOTO: One of many multi-pitch classic towers at Newlin C...
Comments on Newlin Creek Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 16, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 24, 2003

Verm Lives!

Three cheers for Verm! Keep on cranking!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2003

So, who are the wankers that bolted the cracks?

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 4, 2003

I have been setting some route at Newlin and I agree that the cracks should not be bolted. I have a couple of mixed routes and one that is pruely crack, however, I did put lowering stations at the top of the crack. Any bolting of lines where trad. gear can be placed will be looked down on by my tribe and myself.

By montay
Aug 5, 2003

My partner and I climbed a 2 pitch route on 4th of July that was pretty good. As you are hiking up the trail, not too far after the first wall on the right (the one with a pretty big roof running most of the length of it with bolted lines), you come to another wall (more like a tiny Petit Grepon?) on the right hand side that has some bolted two pitch routes. We climbed a route on the right hand side. The first pitch started on low angle funkiness and had a sweet, vertical, slab crux towards the top (probably around 10+). After topping out on this, we headed slightly left to a pair of bolts. The second pitch headed up slightly left on the arete to a small roof, traversed right a small amount under the roof, pull the roof (pretty tough, I am tall and was able to throw to a couple slopers), then meets up with a completely sweet overhanging, left-trending finger and small hands crack. The crack was bolted, which was kind of sad, because it would definitely be a fair testpiece on gear. The second pitch was probably in the 11d to 12a range. Anybody have any info on it? It is amazing the amount of bolted routes that have gone up here in the last few years. Also, if anybody has info on various routes in general, I would be very appreciative if you would email me. Cheers.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2003
Gear Alert

Bob Robertson has been bragging about bolting up this cliff.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 12, 2003

In my view Bob Robertson has put up with your bashing for a while now, he takes no defensive action towards all of climbingboulder.com's slanderous comments. If you can't beat him (keep up with him), join him! YOU GO BOB!!!

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 8, 2004

I did a recon of Newlin Creek in late May of 2004. My first impression, developed whilst stumbling into the trees, bumping into hikers, and falling into the stream was that while a lot had been done, far and away the bulk of the good lines had not been done. All the stumbling about stems from gawking up through the trees at another great looking line. I too think that Sherman's concern is legitmate, but not a dominant issue. Some long crack systems have been bolted, far exceeding the 50% rule, but most of the bolts have gone into faces and aretes where there is no pro. The classic crack he mentioned has not been bolted and it would be reasonable to take him at his word, this is one the great looking cracks you are likley to run across. I can understand Sherman's concern, but I would not have let this cat out of the bag, not yet anyway.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 1, 2005

Did a couple of cool trad routes here not long ago, and one wild bolted arete. Is there good bouldering in this area? Also, has anyone heard about some cool boulders out near Rocky Ford?

Thanks

Jason F.

By Nelson Lunsford
Nov 5, 2008

Most of the routes at Newlin were not put up by a guy named Wayne. Wayne may have done some? The routes developers were Bob Robertson, Bill Schmausser, Dondo Garrison, Nelson Lunsford, John Musso and a few by Mike Johnson. Iím sure that a few other routes were done by folks not mentioned here, but the great majority of routes were done by those listed. Harvey Carter even put up some traditional routes here a long time ago.

A guidebook for the area has been discussed by the main route developers, but I personally would rather the place stay undocumented.

By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Nov 17, 2008

There is a great bouldering scene here, with many hard problems V7 and up. While all the talk is about the trad lines and bolted cracks, anyone who wants to put up some new problems should definitely check this area out for its bouldering.

By Flash Gordon
Nov 19, 2008

Yep, the bouldering in Newlin is great. But don't think it is friendly to the beginner. Bring lots of pads and be ready to be stumped on a lot of the problems. Some real classics with more waiting to be discovered/sent.

By Nelson Lunsford
May 4, 2009

John Sherman's crack continues to follow the crack, up and right. The bolted arÍte climb was done by Mike Johnson from my anchors to the climb left of it. Mike also did the traditional line to the right of Sherman's crack; it is a nice test piece as well. I put up all but one of the climbs left of Mike's arÍte. Watch for rattlesnakes around the Big House!

By Phathed
Feb 26, 2012

Thanks for putting in bolts whoever did it. Not everyone wants to trad climb, and if you do...just don't use the bolts.

By Caitlyn
Apr 9, 2013

I know that SoCo CRAG has been working on the area, replacing bolt sand cleaning up in the last couple years. I bet they're to thank.

By millz
Aug 16, 2013

I have been visiting Newlin for 3 years now and keep finding new awsome climbs. Is there any way I can find a guidebook or any info on the climbs in Newlin anywhere out there? I live in Canon and would love to know what I am climbing out there!