Newest Industry 5.11a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Greg Olsen, Max Dufford, Darryl Cramer |
| Submitted By: | Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008 |
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Description A really enjoyable slab climb located on The Shield, which is essentially the large slab on the upper left portion of the Lower Wall. Increasingly difficult, well-bolted slab climbing leads to a relatively short and much easier runout to a dike. Natural gear protects the dike and the moves over the roof. The crux of the route is famous for being rather thin for the grade, especially during the warm season. Descend from the anchor above the roof or better yet continue to the anchor at the top of the TPMV/Japanese Gardens routes via 5.7-5.8 slab climbing for a full size pitch.
Location The best approach is probably via Princely Ambitions (.9) and Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (.10+). From the anchor at the top of the latter climb, scramble up and right across a grassy ledge to an anchor below the slab. Beware of loose debris on the ledge: anything that falls could easily land on someone below! One 70m rope will get you down the wall, with a variety of anchor choices available.
Protection Bolts and gear to 1 inch. Bolted anchors.
| Comments on Newest Industry |
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By andyf
From: Tacoma, WA
Jan 1, 2009
| Husker Du, "Newest Industry," from Zen Arcade (1984)
Been through mass destruction once,
but once was not enough.
Said we want a second chance
and all they say is "Tough."
A world where science went too far,
there's no way to survive.
Why can't we get this thing straightened out,
I want to stay alive.
They burned and bombed the East and North,
and there's no place left to go.
The Sun Belt's overcrowded,
so let's annex Mexico.
The Peso's only worth a dime,
but they've got all that land.
No need for civil war,
we know they'll understand, right?
Is that how you like it?
Factories left unattended,
crumbling to the ground.
We tried to keep them running,
but there's no more oil around.
We used it all to fight a war
that neither side could win.
Vietnam is little league
compared to where we've been.
Now we live in caves and huts
and we don't have pay TV.
And everyone is signing up
for the newest industry.
Standard Oil goes solar power,
all try to make a buck.
So I'll sit and smoke cigarettes
and babble "What the F__k?" |
By Gabe S
Mar 25, 2013
| This is one of the hardest 11a Slab Climbs I have ever done. And I have climbed a lot of slab! I would put this around a 11b/c. The crux is at the 4th bolt.
The PG rating is for the top part of the climb, but its easy 5.8 slab climbing with "iffy" gear for 15 feet. |
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