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Newberry's Delight 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jimmy Newberry and Less Choy, 1978
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Vic on Jun 1, 2011
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Newberry's Delight from North Chasm overlook.
2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Newberry's Delight is located on the Newberry Slabs (that big chunk of nice looking granite located directly across from the east face of North Chasm Wall when you're descending the Cruise Gully). There are many variations on these slabs. It's unlikely that the description below is identical to the first ascent, but it does provide for some fun climbing up the center of the Newberry Slabs in roughly the area marked in Robbie Williams guidebook. The original rating for this climb was 5.8, however, the first pitch seems to be harder than that. This is a great route to link up with the Peter Terbush Tower, since it essentially tops out at the base. If you're linking this route with Maiden Voyage, or something else in the Cruise Gully, bushwhack from the topout towards the Checkerboard Wall and back into the gully.

Start by walking up a veggy ramp to a ledge, located in the center of the Newberry Slabs (left-hand side when descending the Cruise Gully). Look for an obvious, left-facing splitter just below where the slabs began to steepen. This is the start of the first pitch.

P1 (5.9) Climb the splitter crack through layback moves, hands and wideness to a chimney slot stacked with chockstones (they're rattly but fairly solid). When the chimney terminates in a roof, with a steep looking OW above, traverse left to a ledge. This is a great pitch.

P2 (5.9 or 5.6) Move up and left through steeper, broken terrain ending on a ledge covered in blocks and bushes. Move right and locate a short, left-leaning finger crack in the steep slab above (somewhat hard to spot) Climb to the finger crack and continue to a large terrace above. Move right off the edge of the terrace on 5.6 slabs to a stance below an obvious, left-leaning hand crack.

Note: It's easier to follow a ramp up and right from the end of pitch 1, bringing you to a large ledge and a chimney that leads up to the terrace above (5.6ish) Follow the slabs from the terrace to the same belay stance at the end of pitch 2.

P3 (5.8) Climb the left-leaning hand crack to slabs above. Trend up and left until you spot a traverse leading to a large ledge on your left side. From this ledge, climb a hand crack to where you can safely unrope and walk off. It may be necessary to split this pitch up if you have a 60 m.


Location 

Descend the Cruise Gully. Locate the ramp leading up to a ledge in the middle of the Newberry Slabs. Bushwhack a bit over to the ledge and locate the left-facing splitter crack.


Protection 

Standard rack, (1 or 2) #4s for the first pitch.



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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jun 6, 2012

P1 is awesomesauce!
Kudos to the MP'er who suckered us into carrying two #4 C4s all the way down here. I'm not even sure one #4 was necessary; mostly hands and fists in the sustained splitter.
(Maybe you meant, Friends?).