Newberry's Delight  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Jimmy Newberry and Less Choy, 1978 Submitted By:  Vic on Jun 1, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Newberry's Delight from North Chasm overlook.

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Newberry's Delight is located on the Newberry Slabs (that big chunk of nice looking granite located directly across from the east face of North Chasm Wall when you're descending the Cruise Gully). There are many variations on these slabs. It's unlikely that the description below is identical to the first ascent, but it does provide for some fun climbing up the center of the Newberry Slabs in roughly the area marked in Robbie Williams guidebook. The original rating for this climb was 5.8, however, the first pitch seems to be harder than that. This is a great route to link up with the Peter Terbush Tower, since it essentially tops out at the base. If you're linking this route with Maiden Voyage, or something else in the Cruise Gully, bushwhack from the topout towards the Checkerboard Wall and back into the gully.

Start by walking up a veggy ramp to a ledge, located in the center of the Newberry Slabs (left-hand side when descending the Cruise Gully). Look for an obvious, left-facing splitter just below where the slabs began to steepen. This is the start of the first pitch.

P1 (5.9) Climb the splitter crack through layback moves, hands and wideness to a chimney slot stacked with chockstones (they're rattly but fairly solid). When the chimney terminates in a roof, with a steep looking OW above, traverse left to a ledge. This is a great pitch.

P2 (5.9 or 5.6) Move up and left through steeper, broken terrain ending on a ledge covered in blocks and bushes. Move right and locate a short, left-leaning finger crack in the steep slab above (somewhat hard to spot) Climb to the finger crack and continue to a large terrace above. Move right off the edge of the terrace on 5.6 slabs to a stance below an obvious, left-leaning hand crack.

Note: It's easier to follow a ramp up and right from the end of pitch 1, bringing you to a large ledge and a chimney that leads up to the terrace above (5.6ish) Follow the slabs from the terrace to the same belay stance at the end of pitch 2.

P3 (5.8) Climb the left-leaning hand crack to slabs above. Trend up and left until you spot a traverse leading to a large ledge on your left side. From this ledge, climb a hand crack to where you can safely unrope and walk off. It may be necessary to split this pitch up if you have a 60 m.

Location 

Descend the Cruise Gully. Locate the ramp leading up to a ledge in the middle of the Newberry Slabs. Bushwhack a bit over to the ledge and locate the left-facing splitter crack.

Protection 

Standard rack, (1 or 2) #4s for the first pitch.

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Newberry's Delight topo.