Tyler working his feet into position before shooti...
Description
Are all of John Gill’s routes this good, or did he have the good sense to only attach his name to the classics? I guess it doesn’t matter; as is the case with the other problems that bear his name in this area, this is a must do. Start on the rock below the egg. Work your hands up to the small incut holds on the lip of the egg. Climb to the top. If only it were that easy!
Location
A few feet before the Clune Crank boulder and the Keyhole Cliff wall.
Protection
Pad
Photos of The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route) Slideshow
So, I've heard from someone that you're only supposed to use the two incut holds on the right of the egg--implying that the sloper on the nose and just to the left side of the nose are off. I definitely find it easier to use the one on the left side of the nose. What's the consensus out there about how the problem is "supposed" to be done?
Not having a guidebook or anything I used the left side. I think it feels the most natural this way, otherwise its not much of an "egg" type boulder problem. It also lets you get your feet off the starting rock wall and onto the egg section before the move to the jug. It did however feel quite easy for the grade doing it this way.
Using the left side is V2, V3 at most. The V4 version of the Egg goes straight up the front side using the crimpers which is significantly harder than using the left side.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
