Follow the corner past a roof, then up to a stance. Make a move or two up the corner's continuation (tricky crux), then gun it left out the roof system and turn the corner out on to the face.
The guide book gives this an R rating, but if you fell going out left after the crux - and I found that section strenuous and continuous - you'd be lucky to survive. There is some fiddly protection for the crux, but after that you are soloing. Nevertheless, it's fun climbing and quite exciting. This was the only 5.8 from the 1972 guide I hadn't done and and I just had to try. This route is often wet.
Location
Go up the V-3 trail, then walk right to the right end of the roof system. The start is down and left of Balrog.
Protection
I used a medium Ballnut and that was the only reliable protection for the crux. There is belay/rappel tree, but it may be better to traverse over to one of several others in the area.
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