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Andrew 

5.4 PG13

   

FA: Hans Kraus, Fritz Wiessner, Bonnie Prudden
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 280 feet
Views: 154 page views

Submitted By: gblauer on Aug 8, 2009


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Description 

P1 Climb the right face of the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3PG, 100 ft.

P2 Walk right about 50 feet to large oak tree, just below and to the left of a flaky right facing corner.

P3 Climb the short face to big ledge. Climb the flaky right facing corner to overhang; traverse right about 15 feet to brown groove, follow the groove, and go right into corner. Traverse right about 20 feet to flaky left facing corner. Climb the corner to a small ledge, and move up left then right to a small belay ledge. 5.4, 90 ft.

P4 Move up to big horizontal, traverse right and up to the top. 5.2, 40 ft.


Location 

Andrew starts 40 feet to the right of Proctoscope, up 40 feet on ledges, 20 feet below a large right facing corner. It is right under Twilight Zone.


Protection 

standard gunks rack



Comments on Andrew Add Comment
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009

This is a nice climb, I would not call it a 3 star classic. P1 starts way off the ground (40 feet of easy scrambling to a ledge) and goes up the right face of the huge corner. It was a little tricky placing pro, I really had to look around quite a bit. P3 is the money pitch, with doubles you can like p3 and p4.

By John Peterson
Aug 8, 2009

This is one of the best photo spots in the Gunks. If you can get someone to go out to the edge at the top of Twilight Zone you'll get a great shot of the last pitch.

By Brian
From: Wakefield, RI
Aug 20, 2009

The top can be easly reached from the GT ledge with a single rope and judicious use of 2 ft runners. If you are a new leader and getting rope drag just build an anchor.

The description of P3 above is the way many (most?) people do it due to protection issues but it is actually a variation (at least according to the black Williams guidebook). The original route goes right up to a flaky left facing corner with some very old pins and ends up in the same rightward diaginal.