Begin at the ledge that marks the start of Bloody Bush. Step out left onto a ledge, then climb up 10 feet or so to a small roof; just above the roof there is a shallow seam. Move slightly left until you are standing on good footholds, then go straight up to a large horizontal. Back right a few feet, then climb straight up to a large pine tree. The first ascent party started from the ground and climbed the offwidth (5.9, done previously) to the big ledge where Bloody Bush begins, and they also climbed a finishing pitch to the top. The latest Trapps guide states that the last pitch is contrived and doesn't describe that part of the route; I haven't done it. The pitch I've outlined above is almost never climbed, has good protection (albeit with a bit of work) and interesting moves.
There is no point to climb Trusty Rifle without starting from the ground. Start from the ground and do it in one pitch up the GT ledge and it goes at about 5.9. The first part off of the deck has the best and most interesting climbing. It is a rare Gunks opportunity to do some offwidth climbing with a chicken wing move. Fun pitch.
By Brian From: Wakefield, RI Jun 3, 2009 rating: 5.9
Read Swain's guidebook versus Williams for this route. It is Swain's route. As mentioned...It starts on the ground at an overhanging offwidth crack and is rated 5.9. Very strenuous.
Start from the ground with some difficult jamming, laybacking, shitting. The crack is dirty, which adds to the difficulty. Much harder than 5.7. Big cams may keep you off the ground down low.
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