BETA PHOTO: Looking down first pitch. Very steep and very fun.
Description
There is a bunch of great climbing on this route. The first and second pitch have a very different character and both are recommended.
The first pitch follows the large right facing corner all of the way to the GT ledge. This is fun and surprising steep and exposed climbing. Belay if from one of several trees. (5.5 G/PG)
Pitch two continues up a right facing corner above the first pitch at the left end of the 5ft roof for a few moves until you can traverse to the right aiming diagonally up to the end of the roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to a tree above a detached block or to the top of the cliff. Rappel from tree, another rap station, or walk off to the uberfall descent. (5.6 G)
Location
This is the large right facing corner about 100 ft left of the arch of the route Arch The route begins on the face right of the corner on top of a 10ft x 10ft ledge.
Protection
G/PG, standard Gunks rack, belay from trees on both pitches
Excellent climb. P1 is steeper than expected, but still 5.5. And protections are there when you need them. P2 is the money pitch, a very fun traverse. Leader should protect the second, if second falls on traverse, you might have to lower the second to ledge and reclimb.
P1 is a fantastic corner/crack. The standard P1 belay can result in a lot of rope drag as the P2 does a zig-zag due to the traverse. This can be reduced by bypassing the tree at the P1 belay and going up to the next big tree ~15' higher up.
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