A one-star climb just to the right of Shockley's Ceiling, this route is a hidden gem. An extremely run-out and spicy 5.3 first pitch (definitely not for a 5.3 or even 5.4 leader), leading to an odd, crescent-shaped second pitch with really nice moves (5.2-5.3 G/PG), eventually leads to a beautiful offwidth/dihedral (5.5 PG) that just keeps coming at you. Make certain to check the guidebook topo; there's a 5.8 PG route that overlaps this one, and it's easy to get off-route.
P1: Climb up alcove to right-facing dihedral; follow the dihedral to a pine tree or continue slightly up and right to the base of some overhead right-facing corners. 5.3, 75'.
P2: Follow the right-facing corner system up and right in a "C" shape to the GT ledge; walk right along GT ledge to a large arete, walk around corner to grassy area underneath imposing dihedral. 5.2, 100'.
P3: Climb the dihedral to the top. Due to rope drag, you can build an intermediate anchor on the GT ledge almost directly above the rappel tree from P1 belay and bring up the second, then do a short (20 foot) traverse to get around the corner. 5.5, 80'.
Descent: Rappel off the Shockley's Ceiling rappel, or walk about 50 yards to climber's left to the bolted Ribs rappel. There is a rappel station just to climber's right of the P2 belay, but it's two rappels to the ground -- and the intermediate rappel station is nothing to write home about.
Location
Approximately 60 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling, in a right-facing dihedral with a short "chimney" or alcove.
Protection
P1: nearly nonexistent, although the crux moves have protection. I put in 3 pieces in 75 feet. With larger cams (3.5, 4) there might be more protection. P2: adequate, but fiddly. P3: looks adequate, maybe PG; we had to bail off due to the last pitch being dripping wet.
Gear at crux on pitch three is fine. You can sling the chockstone at the crux, and get a cam in on the left face of the corner a little higher up. It is a little run out in other places on the climb, though.
Also, I was told that someone died on this climb a few years ago. Does anyone have information on that?
By GMBurns From: Boston, MA Aug 12, 2008 rating: 5.7 PG13
Just stay out of the thin chimney on the right of the corner if you want to keep it at the grade. Gulp!
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