good short route, steep and safe as long as the block holding in the old pin doesnt give that is.
fun route to do if in the area of V3
Location
20' right of V3, 6' left of country roads. start on a vertical face that may seem runout but sports a nice horizontal about 15-20' up for gear. the swain guide isnt very clear on the start so I started up country roads by accident.
Protection
gunks rack, maybe some RPs or small stoppers. fixed pin for the crux. tree/sling rap
My guidebook (Swain) has this as 10-. It felt harder than 10-, so I won't quibble with the 10+ rating given here (did a hold break?).
(Warning: gear beta follows).
The crux is protected by a piton - which always makes be nervous. I found a marginal nut placement a couple feet to the right of the pin. I also set a ballnutz in opposition to this nut a couple feet below and to the left. That gave me the confidence to pull through the crux.
The pin looks good, and you pull the crux with the pin at your stomach. I just know I wouldn't commit to the crux without backing up the pin.
Dick and Todd have me, Joe Bridges and Dick Saum for the FA in 76. That's what I've always thought, but I really don't remember putting a pin in. I only placed a few pins in my life, and most of those quickly fell out (the Star Action pins stayed in for a long time). Perhaps the pin was added later, or, if the pin was already there, perhaps we did not do the FA.
There is no way this is 10+ and has always been rated 10-. It is certainly harder if you are short. This is one of the fastest easiest 5.10 ticks in the Gunks. A total one move wonder. Fun and quick.
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