BETA PHOTO: CC Route is the crack on the left. Note: the clim...
Description
This is a great, unique Gunks route that uses chimney, hand and off-width crack techniques as well as a little face climbing. Climb the obvious crack in the left facing corner and traverse under a big roof to the left and over the nose/flake. Pass the huge ring bolt and walk off the Uberfall or set up an anchor on gear to toprope.
Location
Just past the Uberfall and about 50 to the right of Kens Crack. Start in the short chimney in the large left facing corner. Just look for the obvious roof with the offwidth crack in the corner.
Protection
A standard Gunks rack up to #5 Camalot needed. No anchors at top, you must build your own or walk off left and down the Uberfall.
I found this to ba a little spicy at the flake. Well actually, it begins before the flake, at the traverse. I think it's a height issue, my fingertips barely reached the flake.