The first pitch is pretty worthless but the second is stellar.
This climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.
If you really must do the first pitch, start about 10' right of Three Vultures (an obvious boulder problem - usually has chalk on it). Climb up and right through poorly protected, lichened rock, then up to the GT Ledge. Probably about 5.7, 150', depending on the line you choose. There are a lot of better P1s in the area, including Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even CCK.
Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and the move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.
Location
Walk up from the carriage road at the Andrew boulder, on the same access trail as for CCK. This is about a 16-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 12-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Go about 100' left from where the trail hits the cliff to get to the start of the route.
There are several possible descents:
1. Traverse several hundred feet right, past the top of CCK, and down to a notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. Three single-rope rappels to the ground.
2. Traverse even farther right, past the top of High Exposure, to the bolted rappel route just right of that climb. Three single-rope rappels to the ground.
3. If you have two ropes, you can rappel from the top of No Glow back to the GT Ledge with one 60m rope, and then do a two-rope rappel from a large pine tree to the ground.
Absolutely worth doing. One of those upper pitches--similar to Three Doves--often overlooked because lower part is average. What I most recall is the pure white face right after the roof. Vertical, thin, exposed.
I have to disagree with John's opinion about the quality of the first pitch. True, the hardest move - 15 feet or so off the ground - is poorly protected, but after that the gear is good and there are great holds, fun moves, and nice exposure.
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