Ivan's gonna see this and kill me ;-) Props to Ivan (and my partner) for leading this one.
This route may be the worst one I've ever done at the Gunks. Putting this one in here so people know to avoid it ;-) Dirty, big loose rocks, borders on R protection, and a bit of a sandbag at 5.9 IMHO
P1 - Climb up onto a ledge, then climb an obvious crack behind a tree past dirty rock, avoiding as much loose rock as possible. Climb past even more loose rock to a stance below an overhanging section of red/orange rock and a right-facing flake to a large ledge with large loose boulders. Continue to top via the offwidth crack, traverse climbers' left to the Double Crack belay/rap, or traverse right around the sloping dirty ledge to a belay rap tree atop Broken Hammer (probably need new slings - Broken Hammer does not see a lot of ascents).
Location
On the far right side of the orange, broken wall that also contains, and uphill from, Double Crack, behind a prominent tree.
Perhaps off route or exaggerating the looseness? I don't remember loose rock. What I do remember is I once climbed this in running shoes. I had forgotten my rock shoes. I figured I would climb barefoot, no problem. About 20' up my feet were sweating, and I was gripped. So I went down and put on my running shoes, and it felt easy, compared to barefoot.
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