This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.
Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk DOES throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.
Commence this route by climbing the face about 30 feet to the left of the massive Ants Line corner. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants Line.
Location
30 feet to the left of Ants Line on the face. (Note: DO NOT climb straight up the face, as this is Ent Line, a PG/R 10+)
Recent Williams' Guides recommend finishing with a second pitch (Cool Hand Dukes, 5.8). I've looked at this 2 times now and the start up through the "vertical fault" contains some very questionable rock IHMO.
RSS Feed
