Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.
The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.
P1: Climb the crack and corners, and move right into the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
Rappel from the anchor.
It's also possible to continue with an easy pitch to the GT ledge, and then do a third pitch above the GT ledge, but this would require two ropes to rappel.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 15, 2006
Don't even think about continuing up pitch 2 or 3. Dirty and no fun. The move through the V is awesome. I think there is a pin in there and I know there is a decent cam placement before exiting as well.
My favorite pitch in the Gunks, so far. The crux is wild and while not hard, it requires a good bit of creativity. Protect well in the big horizontal under the V notch, as your next piece is at the top of the V.
Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell.
RSS Feed
