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Wonderland 

5.8

   

FA: Art Gran and Eric Stern (1959)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 232 page views

Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 17, 2008


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Description 

P2 is very low-angled and easy and may have many pine needles. It's also a bit non-descript since it involves such an easy face. I usually traverse right after P1 and climb straight up from the Middle Earth tree because the rock is a bit cleaner there.

P1 - Begin on the far right side of the ledge (or climb from the bottom of the slope up the fun, clean white face with no pro at 5.9ish) and move up and right to the first small overhang (old pin ? - Lowe Balls helpful). Surmount it at the bolt on the right side, then step left (crux after clipping bolt) and continue up to a second small overlap/overhang. Pass this one on the left and continue up the path of least resistance to a ledge. Either set up a belay on one of the small tree ledges or put in a couple of good pieces for a directional and traverse right to the Middle Earth belay/rappel tree.

P2 - (Note this is not P2 as described in the guidebook, it's P2 for Middle Earth) Climb the low-angle face directly up from the Middle Earth belay tree to the GT ledge and an aging pine. Be careful here - the pine is almost dead and not a good anchor.

P3 - There is much confusion on where P3 of Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Wonderland, and Bombs Away Dream Baby go through the roof above. Whichever route you take, watch your gear off the belay, there is severe ledge-out potential until you get over the roof. I usually wander through the obvious break just left of the pine tree or through the next one to the right. The break on the far right is supposed to be P2 of Middle Earth, the easiest of the three. You can also traverse left to the left edge of the ledge and climb the corner, but that has poor protection (P3 of Wisecrack ??).


Location 

Same start as Wisecrack. About 30 feet right of Absurdland and halfway down the steep slope at a ledge with a large tree.


Protection 

G for normal route, R for direct start. Standard Gunks rack + Lowe Balls and screamer if the old fixed pin is still there under the first overhang.



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By divnamite
Nov 27, 2009
rating: 5.8- PG13

Fun fun route. Bolt protects the interesting crux, everything else is just fun and enjoyable.