Don't let the name fool you, this is a a nice face climb. Getting more polished over the years due to thousands of gumbies on TR flailing due to poor foot work. Sometimes hard to find it open because guides use it and it's a very popular TR, group hangout.
This one is all about foot work, baby.
P1 - Climb the thin face right of the tree to a small projection just below a bulge (crux at bottom). Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.
P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing on Triple Bulges or Northern Pillar.
The belay ledge can be accessed by climbing the gully 50 feeet left of Fingerlocks (4th - easy 5th, but beware of rockfall from climbers rapping from Madame G's/Northern Pillar) or climbing P1 of Northern Piller (5.1), Fingerlocks (5.5), or Twin Oaks (5.3).
Location
On the Guides' Wall, just right of the prominent hand crack (Finger Locks or Cedar Box) and a tree.
Protection
PG13-R. Standard rack. There is good gear, but get a good spot since you'll be doing the crux moves before you get the good gear.
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