The Williams' Guide says to beware of the "R" rated 5.8 section before the P3 crux, but I did not find it to be too bad.
This is a great route, often open, but it does share the P1 belay of Betty.
P1 - Climb the bulge, then go up to and follow a thin crack that diagonals left (crux) and up to a ledge and the P1 belay tree for Betty.
P2 - Move up to an overhang then diagonal right on the face past a righ-facing flake/corner to another overhang and fixed pin. Move right some more and up a crack (crux) and face to the belay/rap tree (same as Matinee).
P3 - Up right on easy ledges, then up the slightly runout face, aiming for the bolt (placed after the first ascent) (book says 5.8 R). Tri cams and RPs can be used if you are old school and eschew the bolt. Pull the small overhang (crux), and up the face to the top. Follow the trail to the left to descend at the Uberfall or Radcliff downclimbs.
Location
At a nose/bulge, 20 feet right of the wide crack of Betty.
Protection
Standard Gunks rack. Tri cams essential if you want to be old school and not clip the P3 bolt.
RSS Feed
