Pitch one climbs a crack up and traverses right to a thin, tweaky crack, continuing up past a short right-facing corner. Above you there are bolts; if you clip 'em put a long runner on it, 'cause your about to head right. Way right, on an exciting ride. There is a pointed flake out there in the distance ... head that way, and when you get there don't forget about your second! Continue along the exciting hand traverse across the flake to the bolt anchors above MF. Belay.
Pitch two will require a bit of wandering to get up and into the business. From the belay, head left a touch to a flake in the "ceiling", wait now come back right, now crank up and over the ceiling on the flake to a stance...don't forget about how your gonna pro this one up, but don't kill yourself with rope drag either. From here the route continues straight up, connecting with MF.
We actually rapped from the mentioned stance above the crux on the second pitch. There was a scary fixed anchor that consisted of an alien with clipped wires, a TCU with clipped wires and a tricam...we lived.
Location
MF/MAC Wall Trail, about a 7 minute walk...near MF, Mother's Day Party, etc...
Birdie Party starts at a thin crack halfway between Something Interesting and MF; it's also about 20' right of the big tree that's just next to the start of Higher Stannard.
In my opinion, one of the Gunks' best routes. First pitch has great face climbing, a big flake to fool with; second pitch roof is full body-length but well protected, with a nice little 5.7 runout above.
The first pitch to the first set of chains goes at 5.8 and is a great climb for those comfortable at the grade.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jun 14, 2009
Stellar! If you mind the rope drag, its possible to climb this in one pitch to GTL. This is especially nice as it avoids the contrived down-climb to the MF bolt anchors.
The best line to do this in one pitch is to actually to the first pitch of Mothers Day Party which allows you the climb straight up through the second pitch roof on Birdie Party. Not only is this a better and more direct line it also makes for more consistent climbing as both pitches go at 5.10 as opposed to a 5.8 and 5.10 pitch. Once of the best linkups in the Gunks.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jun 15, 2009
Ya but you miss the killer hand traverse along the flake, no?
You miss the traverse, but you get a 200 ft pitch of 5.10 climbing with a great line. The traverse is ok, but nothing to rave about. The other way it is two pitches one being 5.8 and the other being 5.10. Plus doing it in one long pitch makes the roof much less of an issue if the leader happens to fall as you won't be falling on your belayer.
P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility.
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