P1- Ease up the unprotected slab and test your gear placement artistry. Once set, bust a couple thin moves up to the left facing corner. Climb up to a nice belay.
P2- The monkey business. Climb up to the roof and move a bit left. Pull the roof and try to stop smiling. Move right to the RMC belay tree.
Location
On the obvious slab 40 feet right of Pink Laurel and just left of a flaring chimney.
Protection
Standard rack with micronuts and/or extremely small cams.
The initial thin moves up the middle of the face are basically unprotectable. There is a low horizontal placement that is solid, but the next horizontal is thin, shallow, and mostly flaring. Two #4 or smaller nuts placed horizontally in opposition might hold, but I wouldn't bet on it. A fall at or near the next available placement opportunity (the first move in the lower crux) would likely result in groundfall. The juggy roof at the top of the climb is super fun. There is no need to break the climb into two pitches unless you intend to top out via RMC.
I think that the injury was on Ape and Essence which is just to the right of Ape Call. This route is virtually impossible to protect through the crux which is a little facey section 10-15 feet off the deck. I don't think Ape Call is any worse than PG-13.
Yeah, the climb may be R... I found some good ways to set small nuts. Equalized with a screamer, it felt better than some pieces Ive seen. Then again, I have a small gear fetish and may have had just the right pieces.
The Kingston Freeman, a local newspaper, further reported a heli rescue from the trapps for the same day (presumably the same climber as there are no other accident reports):
Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up.
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