Great route that is not for the meek or inexperienced. Loose rock is found on the first two pitches, but its not a horror show.
P1- Climb the nice, steep face to the obvious ledge. Belay below the right facing corner.
P2- Good pitch, keep a watchful eye on the rock. Climb the right facing corner and traverse a few feet under the overhang. Climb up and left over the hang via some exciting moves. Continue straight up past more questionable stone to the GT and a short, right facing corner.
P3- Wild and committing! Up the short corner and traverse under the overhang. Begin the grunt-fest by pulling the overhang at a short left facing corner. Continue up to the Shockley's belay.
Location
15 feet right of PR and about 50 feet right of Shockley's.
By eric larson From: aurora, co Apr 16, 2008 rating: 5.9+
be very very careful when topping out the 2nd pitch.. there is a huge loose rock that is just asking to be pulled on... A, it will scare the shit out of you when you pull on it and it rocks.. and B if it does fall it would take out your belayer.. so, as always in the gunks, use caution.
that being said, pitch 3 has yet another gunks classic ceiling! Bring out the balls of steel and iron ovaries for this one!
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