Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think...
Description
Two short pitches that are very different in character.
From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route.
P1: Rated 10d, but I've heard this is a typo (it may actually be 10b?)... but at any other area 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pillar to belay. 5.10, 50'.
P2: Step back right from the pillar, and head up a very steep, powerful corner system using jugs and jams. Continue up and left to belay at a tree. 5.10d, 75'.
There are 2 ways to do P1. A tricky undercling, or a cartwheel, if you're tall enough, to reach a finger lock. Both end at a layback off a black horn from which you can clip a fixed pin. It's a big, but understandable, mistake to reach for the lip too soon.
P2 was never easy for me. As I got stronger over the years, the holds got worse as they crumbled away. I usually had to lunge it. There's a more elegant stemming way, which I may have done once.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 6, 2006 rating: 5.10d
A great climb with great moves. Doable at any height, but not with the same beta. My 5'0" partner made short work of it with a totally different sequence than me, and I did it differently than Ivan suggests.
Ivan's been populating the Gunks site with great stories from the day, so here's mine on Matinee:
In 1978, Barber was at his peak as the world's best on sight trad climber and the leader of the Gunks A-team. On a perfect fall day, I had finished Ape Call with a partner and settled onto the Matinee ledge to watch Henry send.
We all threw for the crux second pitch jug in those days, but Henry static'd gracefully through the corner, perfect position all the way to the belay. His belayers each roped up in turn, threw for the jug and each missed, twice.
Henry was getting sick of catching these goombahs on big falls around his waist. I asked if I could step up to the plate, got the nod, and sent it first go. Did my best to style through the corners above.
Henry saw the uncontrollable grin on my face at the stance. "Nice job" he said, graciously. A 19-year old Vassar sophmore, complimented by the world's greatest rock climber.
While I've climbed with Henry on several occasions since then, on that day he became my hero.
The photo is great, what a time capsule. How about the blue pin-striped collar shirt, with the brown sweater? Standard issue prep school look. Great days.
The Trapps
RSS Feed
