Bob leading the second pitch of Hawk. Bring the l...
Description
Locate a clean crack system leading past a big pine to a smaller one about 50' right of Minty. This pitch is often used by guides to toprope beginners.
P1: Climb the crack to the upper tree. 5.3, 80'.
P2: Climb up a short corner (about 10'-15'), place a LONG runner, and traverse right about 15' to another corner. Place pro and commit to a "old school" gunks 5.4 move stepping right around the corner. Things ease up about 20' later and you can continue right and up to the GT Ledge at the base of a large corner. 5.5, 140'.
Not a pitch for your first 5.5 lead - the crux is very steep and even with the big jugs it's scary.
P3: Up the corner to the top. 5.3, 70'.
Descend either to the left (Minty) or the right (Madame G's). Or walk left to the Uberfall. The Madame G's rap is better on weekends since it doesn't interfere with climbers coming up.
Protection
Standard Gunks rack. Aliens will make you feel better at the crux.
By Bill Hutchins From: Bethesda, MD Oct 6, 2007 rating: 5.4
The second pitch is spectacular. Lots of exposure and interesting moves, all at 5.4. Only in the Gunks. Use runners to limt rope drag. The runner on the protection just before the traverse around the first corner needs to be very long to keep the rope from being dragged across the corner.
P1- Very straightforward climbing, though pro is a little tricky off the deck.
P2- Difficult route-finding; climbing is easy yet exhilirating. The runner around the first corner should, as mentioned above, be very long. There is some old webbing with a steel screwgate at this point- be judicious about using this of course. Highly recommended pitch.
P3- Extremely short, but with (in my opinion) the most difficult rock climbing moves of the climb.
Rappelling off Madame G's requires about about thirty feet to the right and ten feet of easy down climbing (using a tree). Rap bolts are not noticeable from above, so get beta on this before leaving the ground.
The first pitch is always dry and is an excellent first climb for a new trad leader, especially if the upper pitches are wet and noboby else is doing the climb.
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