Jackie is a popular beginner's climb to the left of Classic (5.7), which includes a fun roof on P1.
This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.
P1: Follow a crack system up and left to a short right-facing dihedral with a small overhang. Continue up the face to a larger roof with big holds. Belay at bolt anchor shared with Classic. 5.5, 80'.
P2: Angle left passing the overhang to the face above. 5.3, 80'.
Pitch 2 isn't really worth doing unless you want it just to say you did the whole route. P1 is really fun though. That big roof just before the belay ledge is way easier than it looks from the ground.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Jul 28, 2006
Love to finish this climb with various second pitches. You can go right and do P2 of Classic, or straight up through the bulge is fun too, or left a bit for the traditional finish. All are easy and fun.
Second pitches in the Gunks are where the fun and adventure come into play. Try wandering a little bit. It may be dirty but you can always downclimb if you don't like what you see.
P2 of Classic is a -great- finish to Jackie, and lets you avoid the clusterf***/crowds by walking off instead of rappelling.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 29, 2007 rating: 5.5
I didn't think P2 was all that uninteresting, but I led the whole thing in one pitch so maybe that's why. Pretty nice exposure and view of the valley, too.
An awesome route. This was my favorite rte of the day. The rock is excellent, the length is perfect (just under 60m), the climbing is always interesting, and the gear is great. There is a fixed anchor at the top of each pitch.
I guess I should clarify. I love multipitch Gunks climbs. I just thought that the 2nd pitch of this one was nothing to write home about, especially when compared to the quality of the first pitch. In any case, Jackie was my traditional warmup climb every time I went to the Gunks when I lived in NY. It is a fantastic climb.