This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.
Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.
Commence this route by climbing the face about 30 feet to the left of the massive Ants Line corner. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants Line.
An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.
Location
30 feet to the left of Ants Line on the face. (Note: don't climb straight up the face, as this is Ent Line, a PG/R 10+)
Recent Williams' Guides recommend finishing with a second pitch (Cool Hand Dukes, 5.8). I've looked at this 2 times now and the start up through the "vertical fault" contains some very questionable rock IHMO.
The guidebook says to stay to the face just left of the arete, but using the arete at certain points seems to make sense. Any thoughts?
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Jul 29, 2008
Though it's been a few years since I've been on Sleepwalk, I don't recall using the arete at all. Though it probably wouldn't be considered offroute if you did, nor do I think you would be missing any spectacular piece of climb.
I think this is a great "breaking into the grade" 5.7! Easyish climbing, great gear, no route finding issues, ends at bolts. Swain's guide, by the way, says to use the face and the arete, FWIW. I don't think you're violating any rules if you use it, although it really isn't necessary.
I also did the Cool Hand Dukes variation for the second pitch and it was a fun jug haul with very good rock. I think the "questionable" rock mentioned by the earlier poster is in the low angled bit before the real business of this pitch. Easily avoided.
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