BETA PHOTO: Sixish, first pitch. The block on the left is 5.6...
Description
Unfortunately MP doesn't have the option of rating this 5.4+. In the Gunks, this means that it's a 5.4 that's particularly gripping. Probably a tough lead for a 5.4 climber so I've called it 5.5.
Start one of two ways: up the corner about 8 feet to an undercling right (5.6) or up flakes about 10' right of the corner. Both lead to a good ledge about 25' up. Then up the corner (steep!) to an overhang - swing left on jugs and pull onto a small ledge with an anchor (fixed pins). Belay here or continue up to the GT. Be careful with runners if you want to go all the way to the GT.
Step left and climb up an easy flake. Up to a fixed pin and then step right to a crack system that leads to the GT. This part is very nice open 5.4 face climbing.
At the GT, step off a big block to the face just left of the huge roof. Climb about 20' up and then work right (crux) below one roof and above the other. Spectacular. At the right end go up a crack to the top. 5.4.
Great route with nice rock and a nice variety of climbing on it. Overhangs, flakes, jugs, horizontal jug pulling on a face, roof traverse with a little pull to deal with. Does demand a lot of a 5.4 leader particularly in the area of rope management.
Not sure it belongs in the 5.5 category with Ursula, Jackie, RMC, etc. On the other hand you, or least I, could make a case for making Horseman a 5.4. Also not sure it is any harder than Gelsa, maybe not as straightforward, but not any more difficult. All said and done folks probably best to pay attention to what John says since he has at least 20 years experience on me.
Had a run in with some wasps on this route (7/4/07), did some very fast down-climbing and swatting and ended up with only 1 sting. They were on the second pitch about mid way up the finger crack. Be careful.
Anybody have a sense of what the rating is by skipping the 3rd pitch traverse and just going straight over the upper roof (not the huge lower one)? I did that a year ago and it was a lot of fun, but certainly felt harder than 5.4.
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