The first route to be climbed in the Trapps, this is a popular beginner's route. The first pitch is often taken up by guides and their clients (it's on the Guide's Wall), but there are a couple variations to the first pitch so you can generally get around. The three pitches include three completely different climbing styles: the first pitch is facey and balancy, the second pitch is jug-bashing, and the last pitch is a classic Gunks dihedral.
Location
The original P1 of Northern Pillar went up the gully just to the right of the Madame G buttress, then up the clean face above approximately 20 feet to the right on the large ledge. Some people still do it that way, but 1) there's not much gear, 2) you're in the rappel line, and 3) it goes a true 5.1. Most people now-a-days go up the medium-angle face just to the right of the big tree, angling up and right at the top. Anchor either there, or walk right to the big pine tree and rappel station.
P2 goes up the face between the two bushes you'll see above, to another tree with a (currently blue webbing, brand new, with a steel rap ring)) rap station.
P3 is the money pitch, and the reason this route gets a 5.4 rating -- climb the dihedral above to just under the big roof. Escape right to get to the very top of the cliff (uninspired class 3 terrain) or escape left through a horizontal squeeze to reach the top of Madame G.
Rappelling off Madame G is the best way down -- two bolted rap stations, or one rappel with doubles.
Protection
Protection is generally more than adequate, with the exception of the start of P2: there's very little gear for the first 15-20 feet. The climbing, however, is fairly easy. There are rap slings at the top of the first and second pitches; the very top rap sling is very manky and not in a good place -- people usually end up using the Madame G rappel instead.
By Tim Schafstall From: Newark, DE Apr 11, 2008 rating: 5.2
No way this climb is 5.4, unless you get off route. There are some scary loose blocks near the top that you must negotiate to get to the GT ledge rap station.
Climbing all the way to the cliff top from the GT ledge height is dirty, boring, and not recommended. Do it only if you're one of those people who need to top out.
The Trapps
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